Pork is the best-selling meat in Korea, accounting for almost half of per-capita meat consumption of 33 kilograms a year. One big reason for pork's popularity is Koreans' affection for samgyeopsal, or grilled bacon strips.

Pork has seen a steady rise in demand, but domestic pig farming has decreased over the years. The pork market is now heavily dependent on imports from more than 15 nations.

The Korea Meat Trade Association says last year's imports of pork bellies reached an all-time high of 84,000 tons, double the volume of five years ago.

Industry watchers say it's no exaggeration to say that Koreans are the biggest consumers of pork bellies in the world. But other parts of pork are not as sought after despite government efforts.

A government official said, “Since 2004, we've advertised other parts of pork on television, radio, and print media under a 'healthy trio' concept."

Many people say that pork belly is delicious and has the right blend of fat and protein, fit for the Korean culture of roasting meat. It also tastes good with fermented food such as kimchi.

But the real secret behind pork belly's popularity is in what it represents. The Korean tradition of grilling or roasting pork belly began in the 1960s, with mine workers eating samgyeopsal to get rid of dust particles in their throats. Since then, samgyeopsal has come to represent a humble and inexpensive gathering, complete with soju, the liquor of the masses in Korea.

Prices may be going up. But that's not affecting demand. That's because group gatherings over samgyeopsal and alcohol hold a special place in Korean society.

The year of the golden pig is said to bring good fortune. That should hold true for pork in Korea as industry forecasts say pork belly demand and imports will continue to increase this year.

Arirang News